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Installation Instructions
Important: A Big 3 wiring upgrade is required for all high output alternators — factory wiring isn't rated for 250A+ output.
Before you start: Batteries fully charged, vehicle off and engine cool. Wear eye protection and remove loose jewelry.
Remove the old unit: Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the alternator wiring. Note the belt routing, remove the belt, then remove the bracket bolts and the factory alternator.
Install the new alternator: Mount it (factory bolts usually work) — hand-thread first, then torque to spec. Fit a serpentine belt about 0.5–1" shorter unless otherwise specified and confirm it's aligned in all pulley grooves.
Grounding: Clean all contact surfaces to bare metal and apply a corrosion inhibitor. On uni-body vehicles, ground to the thickest sub-frame metal and add ground cables if charging voltage is low. Keep wiring at least 12" from heat sources.
Regulator / plug: Factory plug — snap the harness into the regulator. Pigtail (single-wire) — excite wire (L) to a 7–15V ignition source, sense wire (S) to the alternator positive. Self-exciting (one-wire) — no plug; connect only B+ and ground (a battery light may appear). A dash volt gauge is recommended.
Finish: Complete the Big 3 upgrade, reconnect the negative terminal, start the vehicle, and confirm 13.5–14.8V at the battery.
Big 3 Wiring Installation
The Big 3 upgrade replaces the three main cables with 1/0 100% OFC (oxygen-free copper) wire: (1) alternator positive → battery positive, (2) engine/alternator ground → chassis, and (3) battery negative → chassis. Required for all high output alternators.
Before you start: Charge the batteries, vehicle off and cool, eye protection on. Disconnect the negative battery cable first.
Install: Run the upgraded positive cable from the alternator positive to the battery positive. Add an upgraded ground from the engine/alternator bracket to the frame, and another from the battery negative to the frame. Clean every contact point to bare metal and apply a corrosion inhibitor. Crimp and heat-shrink the lugs, then torque firmly.
Finish: Reconnect the negative terminal last. Two kit types are offered — Universal (most common) and Polaris Slingshot (longer positive cable for trunk-mounted batteries). Check the measurements for your vehicle before buying.
Fitment:
This is a direct fit high-output alternator for the 1966 GMC P1000 3.8L. Being a direct fit, this alternator fits directly into your stock alternator location.
Plug:
This high-output alternator comes with a 14.8 Volt GM Style Internal Regulator with one wire connection. This alternator is not plug-and-play and must be wired with the one wire connection.
NOTE: If you require charging at a certain voltage setpoint, we offer a selection of different voltage regulators that you will need to purchase with the alternator for it to be installed. View our Regulator Options Here.
Pulley:
This alternator also comes with a smaller pulley, which causes it to spin faster than a larger pulley. This can help the alternator produce its maximum output. With a smaller pulley, it is required to install a 1/2" - 1" shorter belt.
See this Blog Article for assistance in finding the correct shorter belt.
Big 3 Wiring:
When Upgrading to a High-Output Alternator, it is required to upgrade your wiring with the Big 3 Wiring Upgrade Kit. It is recommended to use 1/0 100% copper wires for the upgrade. Our Big 3 Wiring Upgrade Kit is 10% off with a purchase of a JS Alternator; use code BIG3DISCOUNT at checkout.
Learn Why The Big 3 Wiring Upgrade Kit is Required for All High Output Alternators


